Lithuania - Klaipedia
We left Riga and crossed into our third Baltic country — Lithuania (#61)
Our first stop was the remarkable Hill of Crosses, one of Lithuania’s most important pilgrimage sites. Thousands upon thousands of crosses cover the hill, creating a powerful and moving sight. The exact origins of the site are unclear, but it became a symbol of Lithuanian faith, identity, and resistance during periods of foreign occupation. Under Soviet rule, the crosses were repeatedly bulldozed, yet locals quietly returned to replace them. Today, the hill stands as a testament to both the country's strong Catholic heritage and the determination of its people.
After wandering among the countless crosses, we continued to Šventoji for lunch. There we tried cottage cheese pancakes, a traditional Baltic favourite. Delicious, filling, and exactly the kind of meal cyclists appreciate before spending hours on a bike.
Following lunch, we bundled ourselves into every warm layer we had packed and set off on our bikes. Our route followed the Baltic coast, although most of the trail wound through shady pine forests just inland from the beach.
We stopped in Palanga, Lithuania’s most popular seaside resort town. With its long sandy beach, bustling boardwalk, and holiday atmosphere, it felt like the Baltic version of a beach vacation destination.
While strolling along the boardwalk, we spotted the famous statue of Jūratė and Kastytis. The sculpture is inspired by a Lithuanian legend in which Jūratė, a sea goddess or mermaid, fell in love with a mortal fisherman named Kastytis. The thunder god Perkūnas disapproved of the romance and destroyed her amber palace beneath the sea. According to legend, pieces of amber still wash ashore along the Baltic coast today — a much more romantic explanation than geology.
From Palanga, we continued cycling all the way to Klaipėda, Lithuania’s historic port city. Better yet, we were able to ride directly to our hotel, which sat right on the waterfront.
Reaching the hotel was slightly more complicated than expected. A nearby pedestrian bridge opens every hour to allow boats to pass through, and rather than using motors, it is still hand-cranked by operators. Since the bridge happened to be open, we were forced to take the scenic route around. It was one of those moments where everyone pretended not to mind the extra cycling.
That evening we walked into town for supper and passed one of Klaipėda’s more unusual attractions — the tiny Magic Mouse Sculpture, often described as one of the smallest sculptures in the Baltics. Legend says that if you whisper a wish into the mouse's ear, it may come true.
On the way back to the hotel, we decided to take a ride on the Ferris wheel for panoramic views of the harbour, the Curonian Lagoon, and the surrounding waterfront. Watching the sunset over the water was the perfect end to the day.
The next morning, we boarded a ferry and crossed to the spectacular Curonian Spit, a narrow sand-dune peninsula stretching nearly 100 kilometres between the Baltic Sea and the Curonian Lagoon. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is shared between Lithuania and Russia and is one of the most unique landscapes in Northern Europe.
Our first stop was the Hill of Witches, where dozens of carved wooden sculptures line a forest trail. The carvings depict characters from Lithuanian folklore, pagan legends, witches, devils, and mythical creatures. Walking through the forest felt like stepping into a fairy tale — although some of the creatures looked more likely to steal your bicycle than grant wishes.
Back on the bus, we travelled to the southern end of the Lithuanian portion of the spit to visit the massive sand dunes near Nida. The shifting dunes are among the largest in Europe, and from the top we could see across into Russian territory in the neighbouring Kaliningrad region.
After exploring the dunes, we finally mounted our bikes and began cycling northward back toward the ferry.
We passed through Nida, a picturesque fishing village famous for its colourful wooden cottages trimmed in blue and white. The village has long attracted artists, writers, and vacationers seeking a quieter pace of life.
One of our favourite stops was at a traditional farmhouse where we sampled three types of smoked fish: mackerel, sea bream, and perch.
Back on our bikes, we cycled through fragrant pine forests before emerging on the Baltic Sea side of the spit. The scenery constantly shifted between towering dunes, dense forest, and endless stretches of beach.
Naturally, an ice cream stop was required. After enjoying our treats, we wandered down to the beach and dipped our toes into the Baltic Sea.
We continued cycling all the way to the northern end of the spit before boarding the passenger ferry back to Klaipėda. In total, we cycled 58.4 km that day.
Fortunately, the route was mostly flat and featured excellent bike paths, making it one of the most enjoyable rides of the trip.
That evening we enjoyed supper in the hotel sunroom overlooking the water while sailboats and fishing vessels drifted past the windows.
After another full day of cycling, sightseeing, and fresh sea air, both my legs and my brain agreed on one thing: it was time for bed.



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