Estonia (Peipsi Lake & Tartu)

The next morning, we left Rakvere and headed south toward Lake Peipsi,  one of the largest lakes in Europe and the natural border between Estonia and Russia.

. 

Our cycling day began in Mustvee, a charming fishing town dating back to the 17th century.  We cycled through the quiet lakeside communities along Peipsi Lake, where, following old Russian village traditions, many settlements consist of just a single long street running parallel to the shoreline. As a result, the edge of Lake Peipsi feels like one continuous village dotted with tiny settlements, gardens, fishing sheds, and colourful homes stretched along the water.

The scenery was stunning — vibrant yellow canola fields glowing against the countryside and endless rows of green onions, the area’s famous crop.

We stopped for lunch and enjoyed onion soup with fresh bread, which felt especially appropriate given our surroundings. 

As we continued riding, we passed through several villages inhabited by the “Old Believers,” Russian Orthodox families who fled Russia centuries ago after refusing to accept religious reforms introduced in the 1600s. Many settled along Lake Peipsi, where they maintained highly traditional and self-sufficient lifestyles for generations.

Their villages were fascinating. Historically, each family had its own access to the lake, boat, vegetable garden, and even a small separate guest house where visitors could quarantine before joining the household. 

One of the highlights of the ride was spotting countless stork nests perched on poles and rooftops throughout the countryside. Many were active with mothers and fathers busily feeding their hatchlings. 

Once we reached Varnja, we loaded our bikes onto the bus and continued on to Tartu, Estonia’s second-largest city and intellectual heart of the country. Tartu is home to the prestigious University of Tartu, founded in 1632, making it one of Northern Europe’s oldest universities.

After some downtime at the hotel, we headed out for supper — pork tenderloin, which was excellent.

Later we wandered through the town exploring Tartu’s quirky personality. One memorable stop was a bar housed inside an old gunpowder cellar with an impressively high ceiling that reportedly earned a Guinness World Record as the world’s tallest pub ceiling. 

We also saw Leaning House of Tartu, a building constructed partly on the old city wall and partly on softer ground, causing one side to sink over time. The result is Estonia’s answer to the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

The next morning, we left Tartu and travelled toward Otepää, often called the “Estonian Switzerland” because of its rolling hills, lakes, and dense pine forests. 

We set off on our bikes through the beautiful forested countryside, riding along undulating roads surrounded by towering pines and peaceful farmland. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans.

The rain started gradually and then escalated into a full Baltic downpour. After 26 km of cycling while staring through rain-covered glasses and wondering whether we were still on the road or accidentally riding into a lake, we reached Sangaste.

At that point, everyone happily agreed it was time to abandon dignity and board the bus. Wet, tired, and smelling vaguely of damp cycling gear, we continued onward towards Latvia.